The Dumbwaiter headed to Ella Canta this week, the new Mexican restaurant in the InterContinental on Park Lane. David Collins Studio have designed the restaurant and chef Martha Ortiz is in charge of the food. Along with her head chef, who used to work at Cosme in New York, she is serving up some of the best Mexican food in London including a stunning dish of octopus and burnt onion.
It’s more of a pub than a restaurant but don’t let that put you off dining at The Wigmore. Attached to the Langham hotel on Regent Street, Michel Roux Jr is overseeing the food and The Dumbwaiter enjoyed a fine lunch including fried green olives with veal and oregano, buttered crumpets with steamed cock crab and an XXL stovetop cheesie toastie. A chicken and leek pie with mashed potato helped to cure a hangover the previous night from the Connaught.
The Dumbwaiter headed west to Holland Park for a mid-week lunch with Oli Barker, owner of the already renowned Six Portland Road. The menu is simple - one veg, two fish, two meat - and changes daily. The Dumbwaiter enjoyed smoked herring with beetroot and a perfectly cooked piece of pollock with sweetcorn and pancetta. Faultless cooking and excellent company – if only The Dumbwaiter lived round the corner from this pinnacle of neighbourhood restaurants
The Dumbwaiter left Salon armed with an annotated wine list - a reminder of good times had. Amuse-bouche featured a cracker produced from the offcuts of what must have been a delicious loaf of bread, proving once again that waste is a word that should be removed from every chef’s vocabulary. The Dumbwaiter would happily return for the bread and wine alone, but the coco de Paimpol (a variety of haricot beans) with pickled girolles was a particular highlight of this set menu restaurant.
It’s rare outside of the sushi masters of Japan to find a chef so dedicated to their craft, but in Holborn Dining Room’s executive chef (Calum Franklin), that’s exactly what you’ll get - only this time with pies. And what pies. With curried mutton filling atop a refined take on mango chutney, here’s proof that savoury pastry can take on a whole new level of sophistication and flavour. The Dumbwaiter is pleased to hear that there is soon to be a whole room dedicated to these delicious pastry works of art – form an orderly queue…