It’s no secret that the Dumbwaiter is a big fan of Nick Jones, especially what he has created with The Ned in the City. Lutyens Grill, located in the former bank manager’s office on the ground floor of the building, is a grill restaurant that is no longer just for Ned members and is open to everyone. Tucked away behind wood panelled walls, the dining room is quieter than the other restaurants in the Ned but just as beautiful. The Dumbwaiter enjoyed a Tomahawk steak and a juicy bottle of Californian red last week for dinner before heading to the Vaults for drinks.
Though just a short hop on the number 3 bus, the Garden Museum Café near the river’s edge in Lambeth feels a million miles away from the frenetic west end. In the calm cool of the restaurant, The Dumbwaiter left behind any assertions of a virtuous January and made his way through burrata with cime di rapa followed by pork belly, Toulouse sausage and coco beans. The Garden Café is now on the CODE app with an industry offer on Mondays, Tuesdays & Fridays.
This is the eighteenth year for Nigel Haworth’s Obsession at Northcote. The Dumbwaiter travelled up to the Lancashire restaurant with rooms for the opening night where Jason Atherton and his chefs from Pollen Street Social took over the kitchen to serve dishes such as foie gras Eccles cakes and South coast turbot with chestnut gnocchi and Perigord truffle jus. The standout dish for the Dumbwaiter was the Cartmel Valley fallow deer with Jerusalem artichoke and chocolate vinegar accompanied by a glass of 2004 Reserva Vina Tondonia Rioja.
In a move to court their meat-free patrons, Rosa’s Thai Café on Dean Street has gone completely vegetarian until April - or perhaps permanently, depending on how popular it proves. The Dumbwaiter and Lazy Susan enjoyed sweetcorn patties, a spicy grilled aubergine salad, drunken noodles and a Panang curry with tofu, and didn’t for a second miss the meat.
The Dumbwaiter ventured down to Butlers Wharf this week for dinner at Le Pont de la Tour. The well-known Thames side restaurant has a newly appointed head chef. Julien Imbert was most recently heading up the kitchen at City Social and is now trying to bring a more modern, lighter approach to the menu at this D&D restaurant with dishes such as cured salmon, miso maynonnaise, pickled cucumbers and lemon gel.