The Dumbwaiter has never been to L’Enclume, or the original Roganic, and the first time he ate Simon Rogan’s food was back at Fera at Claridge’s. The two Michelin-starred chef has re-opened Roganic in Marylebone at the former L’Autre Pied site on Blandford Street. The room has been stripped back with neutral tones and those style chairs that reminded The Dumbwaiter of Le Caprice. The business set lunch – a total of 7 courses in all – for £40 is the savvy diners option. Pictured is the pork belly with carrots and kalibos.
The yakitori restaurant in Hackney has opened an outpost in the West End. Jidori has taken a multi storey site on Catherine Street in Covent Garden. Pockets of dining rooms are scattered throughout the building with a cheeky karaoke room in the basement. The Dumbwaiter enjoyed a number of yakitori – including chicken hearts with bacon and minced chicken with egg yolk. The small plates of tempura whiting with seaweed tartare and koji fried chicken both went down well with an ice-cold Asahi.
Housed in the former Woodstock pub on Woodstock Street, Neo Bistro is located in that funny little area sandwiched between Oxford Street, Bond Street and the never ending building site that is Hanover Square. The bistro is from Mark Jarvis of Anglo in Clerkenwell. It’s safe to say there is nothing like it in the immediate vicinity – neighbours include chain restaurants and the empty shell that was the ludicrously priced Assunta Madre. The standout dish for The Dumbwaiter was confit lamb shoulder, broccoli purée, Cipollini onions and goats curd.
The Dumbwaiter has walked past Nanashi on Rivington Street a number of times but had yet to venture in until last Friday. The cosy restaurant – it can’t be more than 30-covers – is exactly the sort of independent Japanese offering you want that sits between high-street and high-end. Vegetable tempura, sushi and a funky Japanese burger with rice buns. Well worth a visit.
Since the arrival of Hamilton, Nova in Victoria has shifted up a gear. The Dumbwaiter arrived at D&D’s Aster on Thursday evening and the place was heaving – with live music giving the place a nice buzz in the ground floor restaurant. Chef patron Helena Puolakka has just launched a new tasting menu that is made up of six courses all influenced by chefs that she’s worked with including Pierre Koffmann and Pierre Gagnaire. Despite it not being very on trend at the moment, the foie gras course was brilliant, as was the roast Anjou pigeon with turnips, January king and vin jaune sauce.