The clocks are springing forward and the new season is (allegedly) here, so it’s the perfect time for supper at Spring. Skye Gyngell’s celebration of farm suppliers Fern Verrow included a delicate salad with rhubarb and celery yoghurt, but the wild garlic, tomato and ginger galette was absolutely stunning. The Dumbwaiter might even attempt a home-made version.
Lazy Susan wandered into Islington on the off chance and saw with pleasure that Lee Tiernan’s uncompromising, brilliant Black Axe Mangal was humming – it’s clearly become a neighbourhood favourite. As ever, the food was terrific but special mention for one dish, new on the menu: a sugary, light-as-a-feather doughnut containing a slab of foie gras and unctuous prunes. Oh yeah.
The husband and wife team behind Strut & Cluck in Shoreditch have travelled west and opened their second restaurant on Marylebone Lane. The Dumbwaiter visited for supper on Wednesday evening to find a heaving restaurant on both the ground and lower ground floors. Dishes included charred cauliflower (what menu doesn’t have it on at the moment), a smoky aubergine tahini with beautifully fluffy pita and a turkey shawarma. However, it was the kadayif nest of vanilla cheesecake cream with caramelised pecans that stole the show.
The Dumbwaiter hadn’t been to the restaurant at The Goring since it was refurbished back in 2014. The Dining Room is still as elegant as the hotel that it’s in and the Michelin starred food deserves its accolade. A starter of rose veal tartare was followed by a main course of salt marsh lamb. The eggs drumkilbo – the Queen mother’s favourite dish – is still proudly featured on the menu.
Roux at The Landau is a good example of the fine-dining world keeping up with the increasingly casual times. A redesign has seen the installation of an elegant marble bar at the centre of the dining room encouraging a quick snack and a glass of wine just as much as a five-course tasting menu. The Dumbwaiter paid a visit this week and enjoyed a menu full of carefully selected produce, from Cornish crab and Orkney scallops to San Daniele prosciutto and Buccleuch beef fillet in the hands of head chef Nicolas Pasquier. Amongst some excellent wines, The Dumbwaiter particularly enjoyed a glass of 1969 Vouvray.
The weather wasn’t kind to Lazy Susan on her trip to Paris last weekend but escaping a flurry of snow she ducked into Le Rubis for a glass or two of 2016 Saint-Amour and a late lunch of charcuterie and cheese. The wine bar, conveniently located just off the Rue Saint Honoré, is frozen in time, replete with decades-old furniture and an authentic, old-school Parisian charm that’s increasingly hard to find in the French capital.