Tue, 21st May 2019
Best Bites
The Dumbwaiter's Best Bites of the Week




To Hackney Wick on a blustery Tuesday night, to check out Tom Brown’s already-lauded Cornerstone. Lazy Susan was pleased to see the place busy and bustling, and when a couple visiting from New York leant over to say ‘try the oysters, they’re the best we’ve ever had’, she was persuaded. And what a great idea, they were stunning: lightly pickled with celery, horseradish and dill. Meanwhile, the potted shrimp crumpet definitely deserves its Instagram fame.




The Moorcock Inn


During a grand tour of the north this week, Lazy Susan made a trip to the Moorcock Inn just outside Sowerby Bridge, near Halifax. The pub was recently taken over by Alisdair Brooke-Taylor and Aimee Turford who worked together at In De Wulf and have created veritable dining destination in this corner of West Yorkshire. After a walk on the heath it was inside to the tasting menu, brimming with locally foraged produce. Highlights include a shatteringly crisp cod fritter snack with mustard leaf and the slow poached surf clams with radish which was lifted to another level with the pairing of a 2013 Savagnin from Jura.






On a warm, sunny bank holiday weekend The Dumbwaiter ventured into Soho on the weekend for dinner at INKO NITO. The latest restaurant from Rainer Becker also has an outpost in LA and is a more affordable hybrid of Roka and Zuma. Perched by the grill, The Dumbwaiter enjoyed an ice cold Kirin Ichiban beer and tucked into a range of dishes including panko fried chicken and the chirashi - salmon, yellowtail, wasabi shiso sushi rolls.




Laurent at Café Royal


This week The Dumbwaiter took the short stroll from CODE HQ to Hotel Café Royal to check out its newly opened first floor restaurant from French-born chef Laurent Tourondel. Highlights included appetizers of grilled octopus with Jersey Royals dressed in lemon aioli, ‘ndjua and cured olives, and a delicious Isle of Skye scallop salad. Sticking with fish, The Dumbwaiter couldn’t resist a classic Dover sole from the grill with soy caper-lemon brown butter.




Comptoir Gascon


On a humid night this week The Dumbwaiter gorged himself at Comptoir Gascon on a showreel of French classics. The temple to Southern France offered up delights such as; Foie Gras Torchon and brioche, pea soup with Boudin Noir as well as the booziest of Armagnac prunes. The highlight of the evening – beyond the perfectly paired wines - was the gargantuan Cassoulet Toulousain, replete with all manner of meats made even better by a cameo from Pascal Aussignac himself.  


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