It was with a heavy heart that The Dumbwaiter heard of St. JOHN Maltby calling time on their Ropewalk restaurant. So last Friday was the perfect chance to say goodbye. After a glass or two of icy rose The Dumbwaiter tucked into smoked mackerel with cucumber and dill, roasted carrots and cheddar curds and then onto the crispy pig’s cheek with a well-dressed salad of dandelion shallot and capers.
Lazy Susan picked up the pace at last Saturday’s Fork to Fork Festival in west London – she had to get round an array of stalls run by restaurants at the event, including Spring, The Ledbury, Ottolenghi, Parlour, Quo Vadis and many more. Hit of the day were an elegant cods’ roe dish with onions, and pig cheek croquettes, from the team behind Portland and Clipstone. Parents at the school fundraiser ate well, while their children bounced around with Karma Cola.
Sometimes you enter a restaurant and it’s just right. Coal Rooms is a place to come and bask in the joy of good food, good wine and great service whilst catching up with old friends. From a Gloucester Old Spot pork chop that barely fit on the plate to the ridiculous ‘Peckham Fatboy’ – hash brown potatoes, raclette, beef dripping mayonnaise, onions. Not exactly summer salads, but The Dumbwaiter would be back tomorrow if he could.
Ever since a little box of sweet treats arrived at CODE HQ The Dumbwaiter has been looking forward to a trip to Lina Stores’ new Greek Street restaurant. The Dumbwaiter enjoyed ravioli di Vitello (veal ravioli, marjoram & toasted breadcrumbs), but could just as happily stop by the counter any time for another cannolo packed full of ricotta and dipped in pistachio.
There’s little better than some terrace action at the height of midsummer so Lazy Susan was delighted to spend Wednesday evening on the terrace of The Ninth. The Michelin-starred small plates restaurant on Charlotte Street, headed up by Jun Tanaka in the kitchen, has introduced a more informal bar and terrace menu for a couple of pre-dinner drinks or light bites. Lazy Susan tucked into enough plates to constitute a full-blown feast, from a perfect panzanella to plump langoustine ravioli to a rosy pink lamb en croute.