Tue, 19th Mar 2019
Best Bites
The Dumbwaiter's Best Bites of the Week


St Leonards


Jackson Boxer and Andrew Clarke have taken over the former Eyre Brothers site on Leonard Street in Shoreditch Street to open St Leonards. The space is vividly different from the former Spanish restaurant with a lot of concrete and pastel colours. The kitchen is split into two – with the wood-fired grill and raw section that was manned by Boxer on the night The Dumbwaiter was in. After a selection dishes from the raw section, including the courgette, peas and chopped razor clams, it was a meaty portion of monkfish with buckthorn molasses and sea herbs.




TaTa Eatery


Lazy Susan had an absolutely brilliant dinner at the Ta Ta Eatery pop-up in Kensal Rise – it’s only a stone’s throw from her house, so she’ll be going back for more of the fabled, huge Iberian katsu sandwich and dainty ox cheek quesadilla. Oh and a “naughty” king prawn rice dish … and basically everything on their short but perfectly formed menu. Luckily Zijun Meng and Ana Goncalves are at Borough Wines till August so summer’s sorted.






The Dumbwaiter was pleased to see that in Glorious Leader Nicholas Balfe’s absence, the Salon team were as flawless as ever, executing seamlessly in such a brilliantly intimate space. Hyper-seasonal dishes with a variety of foraged components made the 7 courses feel like a flurry of both simplicity and varied technique. Although, 120 minutes of the nduja croquettes would have been equally as welcome.






To The Shard on Tuesday evening for a special dinner to celebrate Hutong’s fifth anniversary. The Chinese restaurant owned by aqua group is still serving excellent food and it sounds like there’s plans to open more sites in a handful of cities across the globe. The special anniversary menu includes dishes such as Hutong’s classic duck and a spicy Sichuan style deep fried lobster.






Fried chicken and spicy ramen were on the menu for the Dumbwaiter this week when he went for dinner at Kanada-ya on Upper Street. Gekikara, a pork and chicken broth with spicy minced pork belly (pictured) was perfectly accompanied with rice beer and pickled ginger. Great service from our smiling server Jamie; this is fast becoming a CODE favourite.




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