Most of the current hype around Kings Cross openings are centred on the soon-to-open Coal Drops Yard development but round the corner on Caledonian Road, Flat Iron have found themselves a sweet spot for their sixth site. Lazy Susan paid a visit this week to check up on their winning formula and happily tucked into the classic flat iron steak, fresh from owner Charlie Carroll’s herd of Dexter cattle up in Thirsk. Pudding was just-made Jersey milk ice cream with amerena cherries, dark chocolate shavings and crushed cone for DIY toppings.
The Dumbwaiter has often found the food offering around Brick Lane a little lacking since the closure of Jago, so was delighted this week by Crispin, the new all-day café and restaurant from the team behind Ludenwic & Scotchtails. Delicious, well-balanced small plates such as squid with nduja and rainbow beets with goats curd were accompanied by soft, pillowy bread and strong butter. The Dumbwaiter was treated to the option of “one of everything” on the menu and was most delighted with the beef shin with roasted celeriac. Great produce and good value – The Dumbwaiter thinks Crispin is onto a winner.
Lazy Susan hasn’t got up and gone to Bristol for some time, so was delighted when a restaurant on her hit list, The Pony and Trap, held a pop-up at the always-interesting Carousel. Josh Eggleton and team served up some sparkling dishes, including hasselback Jerusalem artichokes (hello!) and this hake with brown butter, fermented cucumber and apple with herring roe… and she managed to fit in an exceptionally light, delicious carrot doughnut with salted blackcurrant filling.
The Dumbwaiter is always on the look out for a decent place to have some dim sum and Baozilnn ticks all the boxes. Centrally located in Soho, their well-priced menu includes street food and a great selection of main dishes such as kings prawns in fragrant chilli sauce. However, it was all about the dim sum for the Dumbwaiter.
Over the weekend, The Dumbwaiter took a trip north to Newcastle and stopped by Kenny Atkinson’s Michelin starred House of Tides. After an old fashioned and snacks in the bar, The Dumbwaiter moved upstairs and settled into the tasting menu with paired wines. Highlights included native lobster on pork belly with sweetcorn served with a lobster cracker and Cumbrian lamb with chervil root and hen of the woods mushrooms.
Probably two of the Dumbwaiter’s favourite things – Zelman Meats in Soho is currently hosting a residency by Black cod & Wagyu. Order the house plate for £40 which includes one of each, along with a load of sides such as truffle chips and lobster fried rice.