Mon, 17th Jun 2019
Best Bites
The Dumbwaiter's Best Bites of the Week




It’s fair to say that Lazy Susan had little knowledge of South African cuisine before her recent trip to Kudu, so had no preconceptions about what to expect from this new edition to the Peckham dining scene. A warm and well-furnished room with an open kitchen, the place has a familiar charm usually found in a longer-established eatery. Beginning with pan roasted bread with bacon fat, the meal followed as an array of brilliant and well-balanced small dishes, the highlight being confit duck with mushroom (pictured). This is cooking with charm and confidence, of which kudu has both in abundance. Their recent Bib Gourmand from Michelin is well-deserved.




The Hero of Maida

This week Henry Harris hosted a one off duck supper club alongside Will Bowlby (Kricket), Alex Jackson (Sardine), Oli Brown (Duck Duck Goose) and Valentine Warner at his most recent opening, The Hero of Maida. Duck was on the menu, and plenty of it. Highlights included duck offal brochette, and a delicious duck and foie gras spring roll. The Dumbwaiter hears this is the first of many chef’s dinners, so watch this space.




Ekte Nordic Kitchen


The Bloomberg Arcade development has played a major part in the food and drink revival in the City. One restaurant in particular though had somehow managed to sneak under The Dumbwaiter’s radar. Ekte, from Soren Jessen (1 Lombard Street), evoked fond memories of travelling through the Nordics in a setting that oozes Scandi chic. The mackerel with kohlrabi, fennel and rye crisps, and the grilled chicken with golden beets and roast radish were both superb. 






JKS have done it again – opening another restaurant hit. This time, the siblings have teamed up with Kian Simyani to open Berenjak on Romilly Street in Soho. The Iranian restaurant is specialising in kebabs and The Dumbwaiter feasted on a koobideh kabab (minced cabrito goat), chenjeh kabab (lamb rump chunks) and kabab torki (mixed meat shawarma). The black chickpeas hummus and baklava ice cream sandwich are both good bets to bookend the meal with.






Andrew Wong’s Pimlico restaurant has been a favourite with the hospitality industry for some time now. The chef has teamed up Chris Miller’s White Rabbit Fund to open Kym’s in the Bloomberg Arcade. Over a cold Tsing Tao or two, The Dumbwaiter tucked into tiger prawn skewers, pork and shrimp bao bao and the signature dish – three treasure – that is made up of crispy pork belly, soy chicken and iberico pork char sui.




Café Wolseley


The Dumbwaiter’s favourite restaurant is the Wolseley. Corbin & King have now ventured outside of London, down the M40, to Bicester Village to open Café Wolseley. The spin-off of the famous Piccadilly restaurant has accents of the mothership – with the black and white chevrons on the floor – while still having its own Oxfordshire identity. The Dumbwaiter enjoyed classic Corbin & King hospitality while enjoying his lunch before enjoying some light retail therapy.


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