There are two great cornerstones to the British diet, Sunday roasts and curries. The lovechild of both is found at Kricket Brixton. The Dumbwaiter faced off a platter of Masala Roast Chicken, Curry Leaf Potatoes, Parathas and Mustard Greens and nearly came out on top. Fresh curried gravy brought at stages through the feast was a fantastic touch.
Last Friday The Dumbwaiter escaped the hordes of the West End and took a trip up to the leafy suburbs of NW8 to the recently opened Morso, which sits amongst the pretty parade of shops and cafes of Boundary Road. The restaurant specialises in fresh pasta and grappa, and is proving a hit with the locals. The Dumbwaiter enjoyed the hot, crispy arancini to start, then the egg yolk ravioli stuffed with lovely homemade ricotta and spinach – the house special.
The Dumbwaiter was saddened at the demise of DANDY in Newington Green, so watched (with a small amount of trepidation) at what would follow in its much-missed place. But The Dumbwaiter needn’t have worried – Jolene is a delight. The newest restaurant from the Primeur and Westerns Laundry stable, this group are experienced in producing great restaurants with creative small plates and imaginative wine lists. At Jolene diners arrive to soft low lighting and well laid out room that manages to retain its warmth, even with its industrial proportions. The cooking is charming and fairly priced; dishes ranged from bitter leaves with citrus to spelt with pumpkin, chestnut and sage (pictured). Another hit from this team and a very welcome addition to the neighbourhood.
It’s been a number of years since The Dumbwaiter has eaten at Kitchen W8 off High Street Ken. This neighbourhood bistro celebrates its 10th anniversary next year and has held a Michelin star from 9 months after it opened. The Dumbwaiter enjoyed a starter of grilled Cornish mackerel, smoked eel, sweet mustard and leek followed by haunch of fallow deer, roast beets, grains, liver and bacon.
The original Harry’s Bar in Mayfair is a real treat to be taken to (just remember to wear a dark suit and tie). Although separate from the club, Richard Caring opened Harry’s Dolce Vita behind Harrods last year and he's now opened a Harry’s Bar on James Street in Marylebone. The Dumbwaiter applauds the group for designing a truly beautiful room – one could almost be in midtown Manhattan at the Polo bar – and the food is on par too. The veal Milanese and a glass of Italian red was most welcome on a damp, cold Wednesday evening.
As London’s vegan scene continues to thrive, South London’s ‘The Meet’ specialises in revamping popular comfort food from beneath the railway arches of Clapham North. The Dumbwaiter tucked into bourbon, maple & siracha glazed cauliflower florets, followed by a delicious roast yam, red pepper, spinach & chickpea Jamaican style coconut curry with roti bread. The selection of specialist cocktails and shakes are not to be missed.
Emilia Strazzanti hails from Sicily and takes her culinary inspiration from her Sicilian grandparents. The Dumbwaiter was lucky enough to dine at her residency at Carousel last Friday evening. Dishes included ricotta, basil and lemon ravioli with langoustine bisque, pistachio and confit langoustine and a cute selection of Strazzanti signature cakes. The Dumbwaiter was thrilled to see the final course containing his favourite sweet tipple, Passito di Pantelleria.