Chef Anthony Demetre's Arbutus in Soho was one of the restaurants that changed the way we now dine in London. He's recently relocated his Mayfair restaurant Wild Honey down the road to St James's, where it now resides in the Sofitel. The room is far bigger than the original space, but Demetre's food is still on top form after the short road trip. The handcut macaroni cacio e pepe with crisp boneless chicken wings is worth the visit alone.
So strong is the appeal of the work of new Head Chefs Fabien Spagnolo and Max Truel at Crispin that the Dumbwaiter has made two trips to the Spitalfields establishment in two weeks. The creamiest, richest of burratas was had on both occasions, along with sourdough from The Dusty Knuckle, but a special shout out has to go to the Lamb with red pepper and black garlic, which was stellar. A delicious wine flight devised by Fernando Berry of Otros Vinos meant that the Dumbwaiter left feeling a quite merry, too.
The Dumbwaiter has never been the biggest fan of afternoon tea (too many carbs and too many cakes) but found himself enjoying the recently launched Sexy Fish take on it. Sushi instead of sarnies was a welcome difference, and who doesn't like a macaroon or two with a glass of Champagne?
Nine Elms is a still a little off the Dumbwaiter's radar but he ventured there on Tuesday evening for dinner at Darby's. The newest restaurant from Robin Gill is housed next to the new US embassy and is a vast space but beautifully designed, as was the menu. Just be sure to save room for the truffled Baron Bigod - or maybe even order it for a starter.
The Dumbwaiter visited New York at the beginning of the week for 48 hours to attend the Welcome Conference. After a quick freshen up after the flight, it was down to Wall Street for dinner at Crown Shy. After a refreshing Negroni, a dish of cavatelli with chicken liver ragu and fresh horseradish The Dumbwaiter was much refreshed.
Despite it not being a new restaurant, The Dumbwaiter has been told many a time to go to King while in Manhattan, so he went for an early supper on Sunday evening where he enjoyed dining at the bar of the restaurant that is owned by English chefs who worked at The River Cafe.