Monday Bulletin: Acme Taco | Rules | Ralphie’s

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RULES

In what has been described as “a landmark act of generosity”, J-P Mayhew has donated 34-35 Maiden Lane, the home of Rules, London’s oldest surviving restaurant, to the National Trust “for the benefit of the nation”. Founded as an oyster house by Thomas Rule in 1798, the West End institution has welcomed everyone from Charles Dickens to Madonna and Graham Greene (who featured the restaurant in his novel The End of the Affair). The freehold gift is valued at more than £11m and includes annual rental income to fund conservation work, and a collection including menus, photographs, stained glass and visitors’ books. Rules’ owner, Ricky McMenemy, who has worked at the restaurant for 35 years, will continue to run the restaurant as a commercial tenant of the National Trust. Hilary McGrady, director general of the National Trust, said: “This place is an outstanding piece of living history. […] It has defied the odds to be standing here today, doors still open and treacle sponge still on the menu.”

TOM BOOTON

Tom Booton, who made his name as the youngest ever head chef at The Grill at The Dorchester, opens his debut restaurant, Ralphie’s – named after his beloved Maltipoo – in Belgravia in November. It will be modern British, serving pies, puddings, roasts – and dog treats.

ABA-RA

Georgian restaurant Aba-ra, founded on Brick Lane, will head to Soho in November to open a second site. Georgian wines will be central: they’ve hired a specialist sommelier from Georgia who’ll oversee the extensive collection and 18-cover wine cellar and PDR.

ACME TACO

A second outpost of Andrew Clarke’s Acme Taco opens at 40ft Brewery’s Dalston tap room on 1 November, with an expanded menu of new dishes like smoked pork hock and pig’s head tostada with chicharrón and habanada. Head chef is Veracruz native Ernesto Puga (ex-From The Ashes, Cavita).

Jeff Tan, former chef de cuisine at Hakkasan Mayfair, has signed on a site in Belgravia. Modern Chinese restaurant Han & Han opens on the old Roussillon site in November.

Ornella in Hackney and LUPA in Highbury have launched a worker’s lunch on Fridays: it’s £15 for pasta and a glass of wine.

Little Baobab, London’s only dedicated Senegalese restaurant, is crowdfunding for a new home following the closure of the Africa Centre.

Be Inclusive Hospitality announced the winners of its BIH Spotlight Awards last week. Nathaniel Mortley of 2210 by NattyCanCook took home both the People’s Choice and Best Caribbean Food awards.

Fatto a Mano and artist David Shrigley have teamed up to create The Champion, a limited-edition pizza with figs and stracciatella, available at all branches from 19 October. £1 from every pizza goes to Brighton Table Tennis Club. There’s merch and a bespoke box too.

Andrew Sheridan’s ninth restaurant, The Counter, opens in Manchester on 9 November. Desserts include Vimto 1908, a tribute to the local soft drink.

WHAT WE’RE READING

A first look at ATLAS: Good Food Guide

Cloth Cornhill review – ‘London’s oldest chophouse is back and it’s grand’: The Times

‘Vertical drinking’ and NIMBY wars: what the hell happened to Soho?: GQ 

How the humble steel plate became a covetable “chrome” design object: Architectural Digest

THE DUMBWAITER

The 1990s are back in a big way and nowhere more so than at Jean-Georges at The Connaught where they have revived the iconic “Black Plate”, first introduced by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten at Vong back in 1995. Splash on some CK One and get down there.

Spotted at Jikoni at Frieze: Bianca Jagger and Grayson Perry.

To Claridge’s for the launch of its authorised biography, Claridge’s: Queen of Hotels, Hotel of Kings. Guests included Joan Collins.

Meanwhile, at Noble Rot on Lamb’s Conduit Street, Dan Keeling launched his new book, Pick Your Bottles. The revelation of the evening – an oyster paired with a sweet wine. Who knew?!

Pity poor Cassette! Not one but three FT food writers – Tim Hayward, Jay Rayner, Ajesh Patalay – were in on the same night last week.