What we’re reading
Published 11 September 2026
New Kid on the block
CODE editor Hilary Armstrong gets a first look at Kid, the new Turkish restaurant from David Carter and Sertaç Dirik. Here’s what to try, from taramasalata to tiny cups of sweet Turkish tea.
5 dishes to try at Tollington’s
You’ll have heard about the chips already but there’s so much more to Four Legs’ Iberian-inspired seafood bar than that. Here’s your primer on what to order when you go. Chips included.
Saudi Arabia’s pursuit of Michelin stardom
Ruby Tandor in scorching form in this fascinating dispatch from the land of foie gras and camel. The headline in the print edition? “Just deserts”.
The French House, Soho: “Everything about the place is soothing”
So, we have a new critic at The Observer! Tanya Gold, a writer who has covered the restaurant beat for some years, mostly for The Spectator. For her first review, she chooses a Soho institution whose “ghosts work hard for it: they are its permanent residents and, above all, PRs.”
