Published 4 September 2021
by Josh Barrie
Ever the Northern powerhouse, Lisa Goodwin-Allen has been brought in to oversee the Stafford London’s Game Bird restaurant, while continuing her role as executive chef at the Michelin-starred Northcote in Lancashire, another Stafford Collection property.
Goodwin-Allen has worked with the hotel’s executive chef Jozel Rogulski to launch a new menu from September 14. Much as she succeeds to do at Northcote, there will now be a greater emphasis on showcasing British produce, with imaginative dishes such as gala pie of pressed pork, beer onions, and brown sauce, and Lancashire three beets alongside frozen Dorset ash goat’s cheese and roasted hazelnuts.
Main courses will include Dover sole, potted Southport shrimps and sea herbs; Jacobs cross lamb, sticky belly, wood roasted leek with sheep’s curd; butter-poached native lobster, house-dried tomatoes, basil and champagne; and squash potato dumplings, Black Cow cheddar, pumpkin seed granola and crispy sage.
Loyal fans of The Game Bird will be pleased to see a handful of its most popular dishes remain: the chicken Kiev; Scottish venison Wellington; the ‘game bird’ – roast squab pigeon; and steak and ale steamed suet pudding.
Also still in the picture is Ben Tish, who has retained his role as culinary director, though he does seem busier at Norma, the Stafford Collection’s Sicilian-inspired restaurant in Fitzrovia.
While this isn’t Goodwin-Allen launching a London restaurant, which would be cause for serious excitement, it is still effectively the culinary arrival of one of the country’s best chefs. Her influence is likely to have an instant impact and it will be interesting to see how the Game Bird develops.
Stuart Procter, chief operating officer of the Stafford Collection, said: “Culinary director Ben Tish and I are delighted to be welcoming Lisa to the Game Bird. She creates incredible dishes at Northcote and her food ethos fits perfectly with the Stafford London.”
Goodwin-Allen said: “I am thrilled to be working with the team at the Game Bird. Jozef and I have created an exciting new menu that truly celebrates high-quality, seasonal British produce and I look forward to my dishes being available to diners in London for the very first time.”