The Dumbwaiter’s best bites of the week: 19 September 2019

Published 19 September 2019

From Berwick Street to The Betterment

Hélène Darroze at The Connaught

After a two month refurbishment, Hélène Darroze reopened her restaurant in the Connaught this week. The Dumbwaiter was treated to a special dinner over the weekend to see the new dining room and sample the new menu from the two Michelin-starred chef.


Lazy Susan loves nothing more than gazing down on London, ice cold drink in hand, so was delighted to be on the rooftop of The Hoxton, Southwark to be one of the first into its restaurant, Seabird. There’s seafood aplenty – including London’s biggest choice of oysters – but she was rather taken with the crab croquetas, iberico ham, heritage carrots with curd. And that’s before the dish that is bound to become a Seabird Social Star, the octopus ‘hot dog’ roll.

The Scran & Scallie

Lazy Susan found herself in Edinburgh on Monday night only to realise most of the city’s best restaurants take a well-deserved break on Mondays. So it was a relief to have The Scran & Scallie – Tom Kitchin’s Stockbridge gastropub – in full service. Even at 18:30 the place was heaving and Lazy Susan was lucky to get a seat to tuck in to haggis neeps and tatties, then a hearty spelt and pea risotto to brave the autumn chill.

Casita Andina

Martin Morales’ bolthole in Soho is a peruvian refuge. Their seabass ceviche is an authentic classic, and for the more veggie focused, the globe and Jerusalem artichoke ceviche is also certainly worth ordering. Panca Steak cooked rare was a sure highlight, especially when combined with a large glass of Prunus Dao Tinto and a side of pal hearts dressed in passionfruit.

Fatt Pundit

Soho is widely known for it’s eclectic mix of cuisines and types of restaurants, but it unfortunately also seems to be a revolving door of short-lived tenures. That said, The Dumbwaiter has a strong inclination that Fatt Pundit will be here to stay. Complete with classic Soho aesthetic of counter seating and mood lighting the Indo-Chinese dishes though are far from typical. Goat Momos, Fiery Soft Shell Crab and Rabbit Wontons were all washed down with Guava, Spiced Salt and Tequila cocktails. Barrah Lamb chops with masala rub were an absolute standout, certainly the best in Soho and potentially beyond.

The Betterment

Jason Atherton has opened his largest project to date in Mayfair. As well as The Betterment at the Biltmore, the Michelin starred chef is responsible for all the F&B at the newly opened 5 star hotel in Grosvenor Square. The Dumbwaiter dined there on the opening night enjoying this Tomahawk to share.

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