The Dumbwaiter’s best bites of the week: 14 May 2019

Published 14 May 2019

From Peckham to Parrillan

Forza Win

Such is the allure of Forza Win, The Dumbwaiter visited twice this week. First for Sunday lunch to watch CODE’s own Max Coltart working the pasta section in the open kitchen, washing down plates of veal tagliatelle, spaghetti pomodoro and buttery risotto with a light Tuscan red. Then back again on Thursday evening for the lemon sole, panna cotta and a few rounds of their next-level negronis. Forza for the win.


Not content with their range of successful concepts already in existence, the Hart brothers have ventured into the world of DIY dining. Once you’ve worked up an appetite with a few “Para picar” plates, a Parilla is placed on your table for you to grill meat, seafood and veg alike. Carabinero and aged galician beef were particularly brilliant; with produce of this quality, even the most amateur Grillmaster will leave sated.


The duo behind Portland and Quality Chop House have quietly opened their latest restaurant Emilia in the Bonham’s restaurant space. Located in Haunch of Venison Yard, the Dumbwaiter popped in for a glass of wine and some snacks in the bar space between some retail therapy.

Bun House

Chinatown can be daunting for even the most seasoned Londoner with it’s abundance of choice, however the team behind Bun House in Soho have opened a second site that will make navigating Gerrard Street that much more fruitful. As well as a grab and go counter serving the classics (The Dumbwaiter spotted a challenging looking fried chilli tripe dish), there’s a seating area adjacent should you want to digest your buns with a selection of Hong Kong brewed craft beers.

Bao Borough

The paint was still fresh on the brand-new BAO Borough when Lazy Susan dropped in for lunch. In addition to the classic buns that have made them so famous, the new branch has such delights as a Taiwanese take on devilled eggs, and this super soft, juicy prawn bao. Make sure you order the Yakult float – it’s a stealth winner.

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