The Dumbwaiter’s best bites of the week: 28 June 2019

Published 28 June 2019


Inspired by the Maremma area of Tuscany, the southernmost part of the region, Maremma restaurant offers authentic and classic regional dishes, accompanied by a wine list made up of local Italian wines that are both delicious and remarkably affordable. The Dumbwaiter practically inhaled the wild boar ragu, and still had room for the celestial chocolate and hazelnut cake with mascarpone, even after a secondi of guinea fowl with salsa verde. The Dumbwaiter washed everything down with a couple of superlative negronis and a glass of red from Elba Island.


The Dumbwaiter joined the frivolity of the Circolo Popolare opening party this week where the Big Mamma team spared no expense lavishing hundreds of guests with endless rounds of cocktails, pizza and pasta. With confetti cannons, live music and people popping out of giant cakes, the Sicilian trattoria was in full swing, though the Dumbwaiter made an exit before things got really out of hand. 

TĀTĀ Eatery

Tayer & Elementary is the new home of Zijun Meng and Ana Gonçalves, also known as TĀTĀ Eatery. The CODE team visited the pop-up at their previous iteration hosted by Borough Wines and couldn’t wait to drop in again. The Instagram hogging Katsu Sando was brilliant as expected, as were an indulgent snack of Cantabrian anchovies on toast.


The interior design and extensive natural wine list at Peg is satisfaction enough, even before you’ve tucked into their various yakitori delights. The chicken heart skewers were so good that the Dumbwaiter & Co demanded seconds, whilst the Mapo Tofu packed a delightfully spicy punch. Anywhere that can seamlessly combine Japanese cooking, Sussex Pet Nat and A Tribe Called Quest playing on vinyl is marked for a certain second visit for The Dumbwaiter.


Hicce’s menu takes inspiration from a number of cuisines and bucks the ‘jack of all trades master of none’ pitfall this can cause. An excellent dish of grilled lamb neck, crispy gem and aubergine was a highlight, as well as perfectly cooked salmon and keta caviar skewers. The Dumbwaiter was pleased to see Chef Patron Pip Lacey on the pass with a smiling and well-oiled brigade around her.

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