The Dumbwaiter’s Best Bites of the Week: 22 November 2019

Published 23 November 2019

From Herefordshire to Holborn. Here are The Dumbwaiter’s Best Bites of the Week.


The restaurant offering at London Bridge gets better by the day, and the latest opening from Baozilnn brings dim sum, roast meats and noodles to the area. Their flagship site has two floors and is a perfect spot to cosy up over steaming dim sum and bowls of warm noodles when the weather is cold out.


The Dumbwaiter had been meaning to go to Gezellig in Holborn for a while and had dinner there this week. The former Burger & Lobster restaurant is housed in the old Holborn Town Hall and is a welcome addition to that no-man’s land around there. Pictured is the roast duck, crushed celeriac, roasted chevril roots and salted blackberry with a couple of glasses of 2013 Peter Michael L’Espirit des Pavots.


Some say November is a little early to get into the festive spirit, but when a Dishoom Christmas feast is on the cards, the Dumbwaiter is willing to overlook it. On Monday night it was to Dishoom Kensington for a lavish banquet of slow cooked turkey raan with all the trimmings, cranberry studded chicken biryani, the house black daal, mattar paneer and treats from the grill. Whilst there was no room for dessert, the Dumbwaiter found a great fondness for a boozy chai eggnog to round off the evening.


The Dumbwaiter journeyed out of London last weekend to The Netherwood Estate in Herefordshire, home to Pensons, Lee Westcott’s newly crowned Michelin-starred restaurant. The quail with smoked potato, turnip and watercress was ace, but the real star of the show was a pud of silky chocolate mousse, beetroot sorbet and damson. Almost everything you see in the restaurant has been made on the estate itself: everything from the handles on the steak knives to the chair cushions, which were made using wool from the estate’s sheep. The excellent value lunch menu is reason in itself to get out the city for the weekend.


Not only does Anthony Lyon himself have a wealth of experience from Hix, The Wolesey and Roka, but he’s also surrounded himself with a team who can rival his experitse. Head Chef Talia hails from Le Gavroche and The Fat Duck and Sommelier Kevin was Group Head Sommelier for Yauatcha, and Head Sommelier of ZUMA and ROKA. An all-star cast for neighbourhood Crouch End seafood and wine bar indeed, The Dumbwaiter thoroughly enjoyed his visit this week. Highlights were soused mackerel with lardo and sauce vierge and a perfectly executed Delica pumpkin satay.

Noble Rot

Rowley Leigh was in charge of the food at this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau lunch at Noble Rot, and he did not disappoint. A herring salad with lip-smacking dressing got things off to a good start and for those still standing after the magnums of wine were polished off, cheese and tarts were both exemplary.

This article was first published in the CODE Bulletin. To subscribe, please click here

Search results
Weekly bulletin. Eyes and ear of the industry