The Dumbwaiter’s Best Bites of the Week: 6 December 2019

Published 6 December 2019

From Somerset to Soho. Here are the Dumbwaiter’s best bites of the week.

Lucky & Joy

Lucky & Joy have just opened their first permanent site in Hackney after a series of hugely popular supperclubs and pop-ups, so The Dumbwaiter popped over to Lower Clapton Road to check it out after a couple of swift drinks at P. Franco a few doors down. The yunnan smacked cucumbers were stand-out, along with the xinjiang lamb chops and typhoon shelter brussels sprouts. Sadly there’s no dessert on the menu yet, but The Dumbwaiter was assured that they’re coming soon. Make sure to wash everything down with a Sichuan negroni.


It was with great pleasure that Lazy Susan motored out to Bruton in Somerset to visit chef Merlin Labron-Johnson’s new restaurant. Osip is on the ground floor of the boutique hotel Number One Bruton (which is not quite open but looks very promising). The spare, elegant room is matched by a thoughtful, super-seasonal menu with vegetables to the fore. The bar was set high with snacks of quail egg mimosa, smoked cheddar puffs, oca de Peru, Tamworth lardo with candied walnuts and pumpkin financiers – all on handmade ceramic plates. A must-visit. 


The Dumbwaiter ventured to Paradise this week in the form of a restaurant in Soho. With sustainability at its core, the menu offers contemporary Sri Lankan food made using local ingredients, such as day boat fish from Cornwall. The result is fresh and delicious food with an authentic Sri Lankan feel. The Dumbwaiter started with cauliflower roti tacos, followed by yellow cod curry, stir-fried cabbage and coconut mallum and coconut flat bread roti. The lime and coconut sorbet with basil and chilli oil was the perfect refresher to end the meal.

Forza Wine

It was only a matter of time before the team at the very successful Forza Win branched out. They’ve chosen a spot at the very top of the new Market Peckham building on Rye Lane. With views from Denmark Hill all the way across town to Canary Wharf, this is a great spot to while away a few hours tucking into their excellent wine selection with classic Forza dishes like the Fontina toastie with hot sauce. There are new additions too, The Dumbwaiter particularly enjoyed crispy mussels as well as grilled squid and castelfranco on his most recent visit.


Whitstable is somewhat of a food haven, so The Dumbwaiter decided it was the perfect location for a weekend trip and Samphire didn’t disappoint. Situated on the high street alongside Wheelers Oyster Bar, this small bistro specialises in fish, and locally sourced produce. The Sunday roast is not to be missed, and there’s a nice selection of local wines too.

Market Hall West End

With so much on offer, another trip to Market Hall West End was due this week. Traders include Pleasant Lady and Baozilnn, but this time Pastaio’s fresh all day pasta was the vendor of choice. The Dumbwaiter could have ordered most of the menu, but opted for spinach and squash ravioli with butter and fried sage. The perfect lunch time treat.

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