Monday Bulletin: Chez Lui & Fink’s Clissold House

Catch up on the latest industry news stories of the week from the CODE Bulletin

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ARE THE DAYS OF THE ANONYMOUS CRITIC OVER?

This week, The New York Times revealed the names—and the faces—of the two women succeeding Peter Wells as chief restaurant critics: Tejal Rao and Ligaya Mishan. Not only is it a break from tradition for the newspaper to have two reviewers (Mishan will cover mainly New York; Rao nationwide), it’s also a radical shift to reveal their identity. While Rao and Mishan promise to do what they can to evade detection, they draw the line at disguising themselves with glasses and wigs à la Ruth Reichl. “Maintaining that level of anonymity—a policy that goes back decades—is just not possible anymore,” they say. The Good Food Guide’s cadre of anonymous inspectors may beg to differ.

Small Plates

• Chez Lui, a chic new neighbourhood bistro from La Bistrot Collection by the team behind French hospitality brand Bagatelle Group, opens in Notting Hill this week. A second, Café des Lilas, in Belgravia, will follow soon.
   
• Tart, the long-awaited memoir by Slutty Cheff, one of CODE Hospitality’s Women of the Year, comes out on 17 July. We have five signed copies to give away. To win one, go to @codehospitality on Instagram.
   
• The Ritz has been named the UK’s best restaurant at the National Restaurant Awards 2025. Other winners on the night were highest new entry OMA, chef of the year Mark Birchall of Moor Hall, and chef to watch, Aaron Potter from Wildflowers.
  
  
• Flat Iron has two new sites on the way: Brighton (autumn 2025) and Bristol (early 2026).
  
  
• East London’s Fink’s is taking over the café in Clissold Park, Stoke Newington, this summer.
  
  
• Father-and-son duo Mitch and Ben Tonks are doing a residency at Brown’s Hotel’s Donovan Bar this summer. From 16 June to 14 September. 
  
  
• Add it to your English vineyard tour: farm-to-fork restaurant ROAM, opening at Sandridge Barton in Devon in July.
  
  
• Arriving in Bethnal Green this summer: All My Gods, a modern London dive bar from tattooist Roxy Velvet and Dram in Soho.
  
  
• Cool collab from Dishoom Shoreditch and Dom’s Subs: two subs, the lamb keema Oh My Gosht! and the Dishroomy Pepper Fry. Weekdays until 20 June.
  
  
• Farewell to two London restaurants: Margot in Covent Garden and Nancy Silverton’s Pizzeria Mozza.