This week we catch up with Monika Linton, founder of Brindisa – one of London’s most beloved Spanish ventures, running for over 32 years. She chats about her love for New York, how Jeremy Lee inspired her throughout her career and the birth of Brindisa.
When did you realise you wanted to work in hospitality?
I had a holiday job in a kitchen as a commis in Begur on the Costa Brava after I completed my Spanish degree, and from that day, I loved that you had the freedom to create dishes, menus and interiors to your liking. I understood how demanding hospitality is, and I knew I would never venture into it without true experts by my side.
Where and how did you get your start?
I started considering a divergence from wholesale in the early 2000’s as I was keen to broaden the market for our ingredients. By establishing our own restaurant outlet, we proved how positively the U.K. public responded to high-quality Spanish dishes and wines. I also had suppliers from Spain and Jose Pizarro, a long-standing customer of Brindisa wholesale, both pushing me to consider this idea. Around the same time, I was offered the site on the corner of Borough Market. As all the stars seemed to be lining up in favour of this adventure, I took advice from friends in the trade and within a few months we built a team, a plan, and took the site. We never looked back!
Sum up your current work life in one sentence.
On the one hand it’s exciting, satisfying and stimulating as, over the last 32 years with Brindisa, we’ve succeeded in putting Spain’s food and quality ingredients front and centre of many. On the other hand it’s demanding, challenging and in the current political climate, unsettling.
Who has been really influential on your career and why?
I would say Jeremy Lee of Quo Vadis because he has an overwhelming enthusiasm for everything outstanding that is to do with food. Be it the producer, the origin, the ingredient, the flavours, or all the magic that can be created in kitchens both professional and domestic …. it has to be fun!
What’s next for you?
Professionally Brindisa and Brindisa Kitchens continue to be the centre of my working life and I wouldn’t have it any other way. More specifically, we hope to visit our Spanish cheese makers more over the next few years.
What’s your one piece of advice to someone starting out?
Take numbers, cash, controls and systems very seriously.
Where did you last have a great meal?
The 17th November at Adam Byatts’ Trinity. It never ever lets you down.
Are there any openings you are looking forward to?
Noble Rot Soho and Kol. The Noble Rot opening in Soho will allow me to go more often which will be so enjoyable, while Kol just intrigues me as it crosses so many continents and disciplines.
Where is the most exciting city for hospitality (aside from London)?
For the moment I have to say New York as it’s the city I have visited the most, its global diversity and never-ending choice of food. From the high-profile Gramercy Tavern to an excellent local Korean restaurant on Long Island, it’s unbeatable. I am about to go to Tel Aviv for the first time and one day I want to go to Istanbul; both of which I feel will be overwhelmingly authentic and full of raw energy.
Who would you identify as a rising star?
I would suggest Tom Hunt whose values embody all the key and urgent points on our shared agendas: that we have to change our behaviours and manage our impact on the world around us with great vigour and determination.
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