What we’re reading

Spaghetti… but not on toast! Britain’s Italian love affair

It’s 70 years since Spaghetti House opened on Goodge Street with slogan “Spaghetti… but not on toast!” Che ignorante! We’re all italophiles now, however, and relishing the resurgence of the classic Italian trattoria. Writer Bill Knott looks back.

Good Food Guide

10 Questions with Hoppers’ Karan Gokani

The Hoppers founder on his love of pizza, pandan negronis, and getting out of Zone 1.

CODE

The problem goes far beyond Noma – I’ve seen rot creeping into too many kitchens

Chef and writer Lauren Joseph, who has herself staged in Michelin star kitchens, moves the conversation on from Noma and Redzepi and on to the media and kingmaking awards bodies. “No amount of hand-wringing over Redzepi will matter if we continue to reward brilliance that’s built on exploitation.”

The Guardian

Tempo restaurant review – 10/10 mouth appeal

Tempo in Bethnal Green gets the effort/coolness ratio right, writes new Sunday Times critic Camilla Long behind the paywall. A well deserved rave for chef Eric Wan (who goes unmentioned?) and his prawn toast, dreamy cheung fun and honey butter madeleines.

The Sunday Times

Picture Credit: Antonio and Gabriella Sarcomani at Lina Stores, Soho, London (Credit: Lina Stores)