Monday Bulletin: Fink’s | Carbone | Birley Bakery

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CARBONE LONDON

Even before it served its first plate of spicy rigatoni vodka on 17 September, Carbone was London’s hottest new opening of the year. Within days it had its first broadsheet review in The Times and an unusually early off-schedule review in the Standard (see ‘What We’re Reading’ below). The Mayfair outpost of the New York Italian, founded in 2013 by Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi, and Jeff Zalaznick of Major Food Group, has been covered everywhere from Vogue to the FT, with as many words devoted to its A-list clientele (the Kardashians, the Obamas, the Biebers) and to its art (Ai Weiwei, Julian Schnabel, Rashid Johnson) as to its famously extravagant food and choreographed service. The founders have been scouting for their dream London site, visiting as often as once a month, since opening in New York 12 years ago. They finally found it: a glamorous 200-cover basement in the former US Embassy (an address the restaurant shares with The Chancery Rosewood, though Carbone has its own entrance, its own PR). London may be late to the Carbone party – Miami, Dallas, Las Vegas, Hong Kong, Doha and Riyadh got one first – but New York style has been on the collective moodboard for some time (think The Dover, One Club Row, Dante at Claridge’s). The only question: how on earth do you get a reservation?

PAVAN PARDASANI

JKS Restaurants has named Pavan Pardasani as global CEO. The former chief marketing officer at Tao Group will lead the group’s Indian restaurant division as it expands overseas. First up: Ambassadors Clubhouse NYC in October.

BIRLEY BAKERY

Birley Bakery, the Chelsea pâtisserie by Robin Birley and one of Britain’s Best Bakeries, has opened in New York. Its chic new Upper East Side spot features the 30% butter croissants and maximalist interiors that have made its name here.

LUKE SELBY

Luke Selby is to join Palé Hall in Wales as chef partner when he leaves Le Manoir in early 2026. He’ll oversee the estate’s entire F&B operation which includes a restaurant, historic pub, and shooting experiences. He’ll be joined there by his chef brothers Nathaniel and Theodore.

• Next up at the Pilgrim Hotel in Paddington: Keshia Sakarah of Caribe, taking over the kitchen from 30 October to 20 December, with a menu of saltfish accra, fried snapper, curry goat and more.
   
• For its fifth site, north London café and bakery Fink’s has gone all out with a ‘camp revival’ of Clissold House in Stoke Newington. Highlights will include a new look princess cake by head of pastry Adriann Ramirez (AKA @gay.nigella).
  
  
• Meanwhile, in Dalston, Exale Brewing is taking over a listed pie and mash shop for new pub and beer garden The Black Eel. In the kitchen: Billy Fisher (Lagom, The Hawke) with his latest project Riley’s.
  
  
• West Country hospitality group Beckford has announced three new sites: a British brasserie with rooms in Corsham, an inn in Monkton Farleigh, and a hotel in the Nadder Valley, all due early 2026.
  
  
• Little Bánh Bánh in the City of London has reopened with a cool new look by House of Baby (the designers behind Lai Rai).
  
  
• Café Deco has teamed up with Luke Edward-Hall’s Chateau Orlando on a range of T-shirts, totes and posters. One more reason they’re one of CODE’s Happiest Places To Work.
  
  
• Sad news: The Gannet in Glasgow will have its last service on 31 December after 12 years, while Lyon’s in Crouch End will close after six years on 4 October.
  
  

WHAT WE’RE READING

A slice of New York cool in Shoreditch: The Good Food Guide

The 25 essential dishes to eat in London: The New York Times

Posh Spice and inedible chicken at London’s new dream factory: The Times

David Ellis reviews Carbone: ‘Food is not meant to be the point, which is just as well’: The Standard

THE DUMBWAITER

Paul Mescal, Barry Keoghan, and Harris Dickinson were in Liverpool last week ahead of filming for the forthcoming Beatles biopic. The fab three ate at Maray on Bold Street and they loved it, yeah, yeah, yeah.

The relaunch of Rovi saw Gary Lineker, Thomasina Miers and Fergus Henderson all join Yotam Ottolenghi to raise a glass.

Our Ange is on a roll! Mere weeks after opening Cafe Murano in Marylebone, she hosted an episode of Dish podcast in front of 3,000 people at the Royal Opera House last week, before launching her newest restaurant Cicoria on the top floor of the famous London landmark.

To China Tang to celebrate its 20th anniversary. Dover sole, dim sum, duck pancakes with caviar, and an A-list crowd that included Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, and Sarah Ferguson.