Monday Bulletin: Ling Ling’s | Notto | Bar Brutal

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BAR BRUTAL

Bar Brutal is in town. The cult Barcelona bar is popping up at Seabird, on the 14th floor of The Hoxton Southwark in South London until 30 November. The two-month-long collaboration, in partnership with Monkey Shoulder, sees Seabird made over with signature Bar Brutal neon accents and wax-dripped candles, and a menu of eight new dishes including grilled red mullet with mojo verde and fermented chilli, and jamón ibérico. Bar Brutal, held by cognoscenti to be one of the world’s great natural wine bars since its foundation in 2013, is known for its 300-strong wine list, a selection of which will be on offer at Seabird including a Catalan white, red, and orange wine. Seabird will also be selling some of Bar Brutal’s cool and highly covetable merch.

THE POLO BAR

London is to get its very own Polo Bar. Ralph Lauren will open the London location of the New York original, est. 2015, at 1 Hanover Square (formerly Vogue House) in 2028. The New York site is known for its signature burger and starry clientele.

NOTTO

Phil Howard will open a third branch of pasta restaurant NOTTO in a new quick-service format in the City of London next month. The menu will serve what Howard is calling the best value truffle pasta in London at £25. Read more here.

CODE’s 30 UNDER 30

Nominations for our 30 Under 30 are now open. Now in its tenth year, the annual list highlights the most influential young people in hospitality. If that’s you or somebody you know, here’s where to nominate. The deadline is 15 October.

• The Sustainable Restaurant Association is holding The Last Straw, a trade-only event for the bar industry, at Tate Modern on October 22. Register here for free entry.
   
• Luke Farrell is opening a second branch of his Southern Thai canteen Plaza Khao Gaeng at Borough Yards in November.
  
  
• A new address for lovers of Malaysian food: Duda Diner in Nunhead opens on 10 October for char kuey teow, cockles rendang, and fish head curry.
  
  
• Chef Jenny Phung’s acclaimed Chinese and pan-Asian kitchen Ling Ling’s has a new home. It moves into Godet in Canonbury on 8 October for a year-long residency.
  
  
• Ria Morgan-Ratcliffe, one of CODE’s 30 Under 30, is opening a second outpost of her Detroit-style pizza and natural wine bar Ria’s in Soho in November.
  
  
• Vincenzo’s is coming to London. The NYC-style pizzeria, established in Bushey in 2022, opens Vincenzo’s Slice Shop on Bethnal Green Road in November.
  
  
• Le Colombier in Chelsea is to close its doors after 27 years.
  
  
• Tickets are on sale for the 10th edition of Food On The Edge in Galway on 27-28 October. Speakers include Dan Barber and Adam Byatt.
  
  
• The Gardenia, AKA ‘Gardies’, the Cambridge kebab house beloved of generations of university alumni including Stephen Fry, has shut its doors after 76 years.

WHAT WE’RE READING

Where to eat in Margate: A local’s guide: The Good Food Guide

The Elizabeth restaurant review: ‘A tiptop lunch in Belgravia’: Giles Coren, The Times

London is the world’s greatest pizza city now: GQ

Where is London’s late-night culture?: London On The Inside

THE DUMBWAITER

Lady Gaga’s Mayhem Ball tour rolled into London last week. Gymkhana and Humo, both in Mayfair, were among the restaurants graced with Mother Monster’s presence.

To Gordon Ramsay Restaurants, 22 Bishopsgate for the launch of Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars, Gordon Ramsay’s Apple TV+ documentary series hosted by TopJaw’s Jesse Burgess. The great and good of the restaurant world were in attendance including Marcus Wareing, Pierre Koffmann, Joké Bakare, Clare Smyth, Santiago Lastra, and, stars of the show, Caractère’s Emily Roux and Jan Ostle of Wilson’s.

The Dumbwaiter loves screaming babies as much as the next curmudgeon but who can blame the restaurateur who narrowed the space between tables in their restaurant to prevent Bugaboos squeezing through?