Monday Bulletin: Lisa Goodwin-Allen is returning to Northcote & Kokin takes over Allegra site

Catch up on the latest industry news stories of the week from the CODE Bulletin

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Northcote

In a shock U-turn that has surprised and delighted her loyal fans in equal measure, Lisa Goodwin-Allen has confirmed that she is returning to Northcote as chef patron-director. This latest development comes just 7 weeks after she announced her departure from the Lancashire hotel and restaurant after 23 years. Her change of heart follows the sale of the Lancashire property by The Stafford Collection to new owner Silkstone Finance, the investment vehicle of Alf and Clare Ellis, the husband-and-wife team behind kitchen manufacturer Ultima. Goodwin-Allen pronounces herself “chuffed” to be back: “Northcote is a place that means so much to me and I’m over the moon to be part of the next chapter”. It is indeed an exciting time for the Ribble Valley country house hotel and restaurant which has played such a central role in modern British and, specifically, northern British cooking for over four decades. The Ellises, who have been Northcote regulars since attending Obsession, its annual food festival, ten years ago, want to take Northcote to new heights. They plan to convert the existing dining room into a brasserie; expand the event facilities; open a dedicated wellness space; and launch a new fine-dining restaurant to befit Goodwin-Allen’s talent and ambition.

Kokin

London’s demand for luxurious Japanese food knows no bounds. The latest arrival on the scene is Kokin, which takes over the old Allegra site at The Stratford, East London, as of 1 May. At first sight, chef Daisuke Shimoyama’s new project might appear as headline-grabbing as the next splashy sushi spot – yes, he’ll be doing omakase sushi, woodfired turbot, and this year’s big trend, bluefin tuna nights – but Shimoyama’s CV suggests he’ll do things his own way. Following his training in Kappou cuisine, he worked at Ryugin, trained as a sake sommelier, became head chef at Umu in Mayfair, and even ran his own food stall on Brick Lane. More recently, he’s been quietly making a name for himself at Hannah in County Hall, now reimagined as Donabe – London’s first Japanese claypot rice restaurant. Kokin’s a big site – 140 covers and two spectacular roof terraces – but with the Elizabeth Line established, Sadler’s Wells East up-and-running, and V&A East incoming, this may be Stratford’s – and Shimoyama’s – moment.

Small Plates

• Former Hide head chef Yiannis Mexis launches his live fire restaurant Pyro in Borough on 1 May. CODE members can get a sneak peek – and 50% off their food bill – at a special preview evening on 30 April. Expect mussels saganaki and slow-cooked lamb with smoked anchovy yoghurt. Booking essential.
   
• Calling all coffee and drinks buyers. The Sustainable Restaurant Association is hosting a free-to-attend panel talk on “The Future of ‘Fair’ Coffee in Hospitality” at Tate Modern on Wednesday 14 May. Noma’s beverage director Ava Mees List is on the panel. RSVP here.
   
• A petition has been launched to save Veeraswamy, London’s oldest Indian restaurant which should, by rights, be celebrating its centenary next year. The restaurant is currently locked in dispute with the Crown Estate over a lease extension. Sign the petition here.
  
  
• Marvee’s Food Shop, opening 9 May in Ladbroke Grove, is Dom Taylor’s nostalgic tribute to London’s Caribbean takeaways. The chef (winner of Channel Four’s Five Star Kitchen: Britain’s Next Great Chef) will serve his take on Jamaican patties and festival dumplings.
  
  
• The Farm Caff is a new 35-cover restaurant at Higher Farm, a regenerative farming project in Castle Cary, Somerset. George Barson (River Cottage, Cora Pearl) leads the kitchen. Guests get a map with the menu and are invited to take a stroll on the land after their meal.
  
  
• Angelina in Dalston has an opening date for its City spin-off. Osteria Angelina will open in Norton Folgate on 20 May and will serve an Italo-Japanese menu of binchotan grills and fresh pasta dishes such as tagliolini with mentaiko.
  
  
• The Felix Project, London’s largest food redistribution charity, raised enough for 100,000 meals with its Restaurants Feed London campaign last year. This year, it wants to double that. London restaurants can get involved by adding a £1 donation to diners’ bills. To register, email [email protected]
  
  
• Justine Murphy of mymuybueno has launched Justine Murphy Talent Management, a boutique agency representing established and emerging culinary talents. Her roster already includes the likes of Endo Kazutoshi, Kirk Haworth, and Emily Roux.