The Dumbwaiter’s best bites of the week: 1 August 2019

Published 1 August 2019

From Fitzrovia to Fortnum & Mason


It’s no secret that Lazy Susan has been a huge fan of Popham’s since it turned a defunct chemist on Prebend street into a emporium of some of the best pastries in London (the bacon maple escargot is surely number one). And so a second site from Ollie Gold and the team was music to her ears, particularly with the news that they would open in the evenings with a pasta menu. Lazy Susan headed over to Richmond Road on Friday evening where dinner began with their signature sourdough and delicately pickled veg with bagna cauda. Then it was onto the pasta: Cappellacci del Briganti with Isle of Wight tomatoes and Tallegio Cappelletti with macerated grapes and hazlenuts.

Arros QD

After a spritz or two at POLPO Soho to celebrate their collaboration with All’Arco from Venice, The Dumbwaiter hot footed over to Fitzrovia to dine at the recently opened Arros QD. Paella was the order of the day – with this version of the traditional rice dish with Iberica press.

Hampton Manor

It was to Hampton-in-Arden on Friday night for The Dumbwaiter. He had the pleasure of staying at the beautiful Hampton Manor, the former estate of Sir Robert Peel which is now home to Peel’s restaurant. After a glass of Nyetimber (there is a strong focus on British wine), The Dumbwaiter enjoyed a four-course meal. It was supplied, for the most part, by their own walled garden where they grow much of their produce. Especially good was the lamb with lettuce and peas and marjoram. And must not forget the breakfast of superlative smoked salmon and fluffy eggs. Well worth the trip out of London.

Fortnum & Mason

When it’s warm and sunny outside, the idea of eating Christmas dinner is bonkers. But Lazy Susan had not just any festive feast the other night – it was the Fortnum & Mason Christmas dinner. Absolutely sensational smoked salmon from Northern Ireland was followed by goose from Worcestershire with all the trimmings. All cooked perfectly by F&M’s chefs and hosted by the marvellous Ewan Venters.


Soho’s Bun House has been reimagined with the opening of Wun’s. Inspired by 1960s late-night Hong Kong and designed by co-founder Z He, the bright open-air street café upstairs gives way to a more late-night affair beneath. The menu is Cantonese in origin but embraces the diverse influences on Hong Kong’s food scene. Highlights include sour plum braised duck (Gran’s secret recipe) and Iberico char siu clay pot rice. There’s also an extensive cocktail list, printed on newspapers which also tell the story of the restaurant.

To read more reviews and recommendations, subscribe to the Bulletin here

Weekly bulletin. Eyes and ear of the industry