From Colwell Bay to Catherine Street
Sat on a seaside terrace in the sun with magnums of rose flowing it was easy to forget that the Dumbwaiter hadn’t in fact travelled to a beach club in the med, but rather just across the Solent to the Isle of Wight. Settling nicely into a long lunch at The Hut in Colwell Bay, the Dumbwaiter tucked into a surf n’ turf of côtes de boeuf, lobster and crevettes followed by an Alaska cone.
Dover Street has transformed over the years with the arrivals of the likes of Victoria Beckham and James Perse. There’s now a new kid on the block by the name of Moncks of Dover Street. The room is classic brasserie vibes with sketches adorning the walls that lead to an airy conservatory room at the back. The menu has all the favourites from steak and eggs, a burger, steak tartare and pasta. A very welcome addition to W1.
The renaissance of Ladbroke Grove boozer The KPH is welcome news. As you’d expect, with Henry Harris at the helm and St.John alumnus Ruairidh Summers in the kitchen, the food is fab. Lazy Susan had the best grouse she’s ever eaten, bookended with fabulous veal tonnato and the signature crème caramel. Suddenly west London’s looking fresh again.
Catherine Street has always been a funny location on the fringe of the tourist mecca that is Covent Garden. Opera Tavern, which has recently changed hands, has undergone a nice little facelift and The Dumbwaiter is delighted to report that food is as good as ever when it used to be under the watchful eyes of Ben Tish. Be sure to order the Iberico pluma.
To White City House on Monday evening for the next in the series of Clerkenwell Boy’s supper clubs in collaboration with White City House. Elizabeth Haigh was showcasing her cooking at the Soho House in west London. Guests enjoyed her “fried carrot cake” – a classic Malaysian breakfast dish and fried chicken with caviar.
The Dumbwaiter did dinner a little differently this week: on board a bus. Originating in Paris, and launching in London last summer, Bustronome pitches itself as a gastronomic sightseeing tour of London. With panoramic views, a 6 course dinner using seasonal ingredients & wine pairings, this is certainly the way the Dumbwaiter wants to revisit some of London’s greatest landmarks.
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