The Dumbwaiter’s Best Bites of the Week: 6 March 2020

Published 6 March 2020


Vegan gem ceasar, Double Standard

Artichoke velouté, quince, winter truffle & brioche, Allegra

Fish course, The Connaught Grill

Wagyu sandiwch, Wagyumafia

From Stratford to Soho. Here are the Dumbwaiter’s best bites of the week.


He’s as well known for his dramatic presentation as for his food, but when Wagyumafia’s Hisato Hamada brought a team (and a suitcase containing very special 158-day aged wagyu beef) to London, the results were very special. At a ticketed one-night pop-up at Fortnum & Mason in the City, this wagyusando was tender and tangy, with a cheeky Wagyusco’ hot sauce to dip. Lazy Susan managed to get through some stellar wagyu gyoza and a 1kg bowl of wagyu ramen too (tough job, etc…).



The Dumbwaiter was in Soho this week for lunch at Boulevard, London’s newest theatre. With a shiny new interior (think lots of velvet and prints on the walls), the menu offers an eclectic mix of small and large plates. The Dumbwaiter & Lazy Susan enjoyed braised artichokes and a salmon tartare, followed by a superlative cheeseburger. The curried cauliflower with black dahl is also not to be missed! What better way to start a show…

Vegan gem ceasar, Double Standard

Double Standard

Peter Sanchez Iglesias’ Decimo has certainly earned its fair share of critical acclaim and attention since opening on the 10th floor of The Standard hotel in King’s Cross. However after eating at Double Standard this week, The Dumbwaiter urges you to not overlook the hotel’s other restaurants. Set in a bold and boisterous space with a menu inspired by traditional pub classics and NYC dive bar food, the big pretzel, burger and Mac ‘n’ cheese (with added truffle) are highly recommended – and even the vegan gem Caesar with coconut parmesan wowed. The food is perfectly complimented by an inventive cocktail menu, too.

Artichoke velouté, quince, winter truffle & brioche, Allegra


Patrick Powell was instrumental in making Chiltern Firehouse the classic it now is, he continues to build his influence on the London restaurant scene with the lofty and refined Allegra. The space is as elegantly designed as you’d expect from a property backed by Harry Handelsman but the price of the tasting menu left The Dumbwaiter pleasantly surprised. Particular highlights were the liver parfait choux buns with pickled kumquat and immaculately cooked duck breast accompanied by a spiced leg ragout.

Sushi on Jones

Omasake menu, Sushi on Jones

This omakase restaurant has come over from New York and opened a sushi counter in the Lafayette music venue in King’s Cross. The Dumbwaiter hasn’t eaten at the Araki but Sushi on Jones definitely makes for a far more affordable omakase option in town.

Fish course, The Connaught Grill

Connaught Grill

The Connaught is probably the Dumbwaiter’s favourite hotel in London and now they’ve got a new restaurant in the Mayfair hotel. The Connaught Grill has been reincarnated with the food now overseen by Jean Georges. The menu has some classics as well as daily changing pie.


There were a lot of sad people around London last year when Gymkhana has to close due to a fire. Luckily nobody was hurt and they’ve used it as an opportunity to refurbish the Albermarle Street Indian restaurant. The downstairs dining room is now much lighter and more feminine but the regulars will be happy that the menu still has eighty percent of the classics still on it.

Tandoori masala lamb chops, Gymkhana

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