The Dumbwaiter’s Best Bites of the Week, 7 February 2020

Published 7 February 2020

From Hammersmith to Holborn. Here are The Dumbwaiter’s best bites of the week.

Davies and Brook

It was one of the most anticipated restaurant openings of 2019 and The Dumbwaiter finally got around to eating (twice – lunch and dinner) at Davies & Brook, the new restaurant from Daniel Humm at Claridge’s this week. Service, as expected from Make It Nice, was exemplary but not too formal and the kitchen was firing on all cylinders too – especially with the squash and caviar and dry aged duck.

Peckham Cellars

Peckham is one the Dumbwaiter’s favourite neighbourhoods to explore, and Peckham Cellars has just made it even better. A new wine shop, bar and kitchen close to Queen Road Peckham station is an intimate, low-key spot with a really interesting wines (they have a section called weird & wonderful). With a mix of small and large plates, The Dumbwaiter and Lazy Susan couldn’t stop talking about those potatoes dauphines with Cornish gouda.


A very overdue first visit to Orasay did not disappoint. From a fresh, diverse menu a starter of whole deep fried quail was a cheeky choice before more virtuous monkfish with squash and winter greens. Lovely to see patron Jackson Boxer and on a chilly February night, the restaurant was packed with boisterous, enthusiastic crowd. Next time, if budget allows, potato chips, creme fraiche and caviar please!


Whilst The Dumbwaiter was sad to see Spuntino close on Rupert Street, its replacement Paradise is most definitely a welcome addition to the Soho dining scene. This Sri Lankan restaurant was well reviewed by Marina O’Loughlin in the Sunday Times and it’s easy to see why. Not only are the interiors on point but so is the food and service. Just watch out for some of the dishes when it comes to spice – they have good old kick to them.

CODE’s 30 under 30 at the Rosewood London

The Dumbwaiter was lucky to be invited to CODE’s special 30 under 30 last Sunday at the Rosewood to celebrate young talent in the hospitality industry. After a few glasses of Louis Roederer, guests tucked into a meal that included one of chef Calum Franklin’s famous pies from Holborn Dining Room. It was then off for a few drinks afterwards at Scarfes bar.


During a day of interviewing and photo-shooting for the upcoming CODE Quarterly magazine, there is no better pick me up than a slice (or five) of homeslice pizza. The Dumbwaiter opted for a 20″ split of mushroom with pumpkin seeds and chilli oil and the vegan special in collaboration with The Hampstead Kitchen: Za’atar roasted Aubergine with a smokey red pepper base, red onion, red peppers and sundried tomatoes.

Counter Culture 

The Dumbwaiter was in Clapham old town this week for the first all-vegan takeover at Counter Culture. Robin Gill has invited Andy Hogben of Alter to cook a nightly-changing vegan menu for a limited time. With only 14 stools, Counter Culture is a small plate concept and dining here is an intimate experience with the chef just feet away. The incredible watermelon Miang, and Malay Laksa with soba noodles, Kaffir lime leaf & deep friend peanuts brought intricate flavours of South East Asia to a cold South London evening.

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