Published 3 December 2019
What do you eat when you get home after service? Chris Leach of Manteca shares his recipe for tonnarelli cacio e pepe
Manteca is the brand-new opening from chefs Chris Leach (formerly of Petersham Nurseries) and David Carter of Smokestak. Their pop-up 10 Heddon Street was a big success and they will offer similar hearty dishes at their Soho restaurant. Chris explains, “David and I were really happy with the response to our 10 Heddon Street residency, and I’m looking forward to bringing that same spirit to Soho. Manteca is really an accumulation of what I’ve learnt in various kitchens over the years, from the live fire cooking of Pitt Cue Co to the seasonality of Petersham Nurseries. It’s all about a love of sharing really good food with friends.”
I usually serve a take on this dish with brown crab and Grana Padano rather than the traditional Pecorino Romano but it still doesn’t stop me making a classic version of this dish after work or sometimes as a post-service snack for the team.
My version is not very Roman as I use butter and I like to add a little lemon juice to balance the richness, whatever you do don’t be shy with the black pepper!
10g Freshly ground black pepper – or use a mix of peppercorns – black, pink, even sichuan
20g butter
30g grated Pecorino Romano plus more to finish
100g tonnarelli or spaghetti
1 lemon
1. Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Salt until the water tastes highly seasoned – but not like the sea! Cook according to the packet instructions or a couple of minutes for fresh pasta.
2. Start the sauce a few minutes before the pasta is ready. Toast the black pepper in a dry pan until fragrant, but do not let it burn; about a minute. Add the butter and a big ladleful of pasta water and let boil together until emulsified.
3. Add the pasta to the boiling emulsification with the cheese. Toss rapidly until well combined and all the pasta is coated, then add a little squeeze of lemon juice. Plate the pasta and grate more fresh Pecorino over the top and a last grind of fresh pepper.
Manteca, 58 Great Marlborough Street, London, W1F 7JY mantecarestaurant.co.uk
For more recipes, subscribe to the CODE Quarterly magazine here