In this week’s CODE meets, we chat to Anna Haugh, a chef shining the light on Irish food and produce in the heart of Chelsea. She tells us about the need for better education on Irish food, how her upbringing influenced Myrtle and how she got started in hospitality.
How would you describe Myrtle in a few sentences for those who haven’t visited?
Myrtle is a taste of Ireland in the heart of Chelsea, we work with Irish based small-scale farmers to delve into the land’s produce.
How do you ensure you put the spotlight on Irish produce and food?
We create dishes that highlight wonderful produce from Ireland. We use ingredients found in each county, and recipes from Ireland’s past as inspiration for many of our dishes.
Do you think there is enough knowledge about and representation of Irish food in London?
I think Ireland itself could do with a little more knowledge on our food and cooking history. So, if we have some way to go, so does London.
How has your childhood and upbringing influenced Myrtle?
I like to think that the restaurant reflects my parents and how they raised their four children. The staff are warm and welcoming, and the kitchen does their best to give the customers wonderful food. My parents enjoyed working and I was raised to see going to work as part of your life and not a burden. I love my job. My parents taught me how to save and budget: without this the restaurant would never have gotten off the ground.
You’ve spent the last few months working on your menu. What changes have you made?`
Honestly there have been more changes than I realised. I looked back on pictures from last year and I cannot believe how much we have already evolved. We have added a tasting menu which brings you to different counties in Ireland. We have discovered new suppliers and producers.
If you had to pick a favourite dish from the menu, what would it be?
If you twist my arm, I love the new grouse dish on the menu. We roast the crown of grouse brushed with poitín and honey, it’s served with a pressed potato, mushroom and confit grouse leg terrine, sweetcorn purée and grouse and colcannon croquette.
How did you get started in hospitality?
I accidentally walked into a kitchen. It was empty. A sea of stainless steel. Something inside of me clicked and I knew I belonged there.
What advice do you have for people looking to open their own restaurant?
Talk to people about your ideas and then listen to how they interpret them. If people keep mispronouncing the name or are getting your concept muddled, go back to the drawing board. Constantly revise what you’re thinking of doing until it’s perfect.
What’s the best thing about working in the hospitality industry?
The list is long. The people and the bonds you create. Our job is making people happy, helping people celebrate important times in the lives, engagements, anniversaries, weddings, birthdays, exam results reunions, births and so much more. It’s a job that brings creativity and thoughtfulness together. It’s a job that you make your own. Every day you have a hundred small hurdles, and at the end of the day you can feel a huge sense of achievement.
Where is your favourite place to eat (other than Myrtle)?
So many places. London is an amazing place to eat out in. Five Fields, Chez Bruce, Roe in Brixton, Hawksmoor.
What would you say to those who are still apprehensive to come and visit the restaurant?
If you don’t feel safe trust your instincts and stay at home. To dine out is a luxury and we want people to feel happy and comfortable. Your mental and physical health is most important.
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