Tommy Banks on CODE 30 under 30 and how it helps recognise hospitality talent

The Black Swan chef-patron Tommy Banks on what CODE’s 30 under 30 means to him.

Tommy Banks was an emerging star in 2017 when he was listed on CODE’s 30 under 30 list for the first time. It was in that year I first met him, travelling to his flagship restaurant The Black Swan in Oldstead, North Yorkshire, to talk about his now famous crapaudine beetroot dish, his farm to plate approach – not enshrined fully in ubiquity then – and indeed the fact even then he was pushing beyond tired buzzwords like ‘sustainable, local, seasonal.’

Today, Banks is a household name. His beetroot still makes the odd appearance – it did only recently, in fact, at the launch of his canned wine range at the new Edrich restaurant at Lord’s Cricket Ground – but his role now is as much about nurturing talent across his group as it is cooking halibut in mussel sauce.

In 2022’s list, his group operations manager, 24-year-old Luke Murray, features. Murray joined the front of house team at Roots in York and immediately set himself apart with ‘impressive leadership and logistical skills’. Four months in, the pandemic arrived and with it came the opportunity to help set up Made In Oldstead, the at home range. It is impressive work.

Banks says: ‘I think 30 under 30 is a measure of success, and a way of celebrating talent, the next generation, at the top of their game. It’s an accolade and I think it shines a light on people who might be the next big thing.’

‘I also think it’s a community network and anything like that in this industry is so helpful. Sharing support and advice is important and there are some people you might not have heard of, so that’s an opportunity in itself – it gives them recognition.’

Banks, now 32, appeared on CODE 30 under 30 more than once. He says it was a ‘leg up’ at the time in an ever-changing industry.

‘In my 20s, it helped people take me seriously,’ the chef says. ‘I’m happy I was able to achieve quite a lot when I was young, but that didn’t always matter to some people.’

‘It’s funny, because back then people would say, ‘he’s good for his age’. I’m 32 now, and I’m wondering, am I still ‘good for my age?’. You have to keep pushing on. And now I’m really happy to help others come up like I did.’

I reckon Banks is probably being a little humble there. His numerous accolades since his 20s would suggest he’s done alright. Regardless, he wants to look at the bigger picture.

‘There are lots of positives to representation across the industry,’ he tells CODE. ‘You know, some might be included and go off and do other things, some might become ‘big names’ so to speak, and go on to do exciting stuff.’

‘I like that it’s inclusive, that it’s a platform that showcases not just 30 chefs, but people from across the industry. Restaurants need all sorts of jobs – operations, suppliers, PRs. And it’s about their roles and them, it’s not just something to get column inches.’

He added: ‘We’re custodians of hospitality and we should all be doing more to improve our industry however we can.’

Tommy Banks featured in our 30 under 30 class of 2017. CODE’s 30 under 30 class of 2022/23 list will be announced on Wednesday 7 December.

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