The best things the CODE team ate this week: 25 September 2020

Published 25 September 2020

Primavera risotto, Harry's Bar

Spiced chickpeas with sweetened yoghurt, Kahani

Tomato and cods roe tart, The Dairy Bermondsey

Friggitelli peppers, Crispin

Sweet and sour onions, Ottolenghi

From Spitalfields Market to Sloane Square. Here are the best things the CODE team ate this week.


To a dinner co-hosted by Yotam Ottolenghi and his development chef Ixta Belfrage at Rovi – to celebrate the publication of their new book, Flavour. And a menu with dishes from the book was, yes, full of flavour. Standouts include mouth puckeringly delicious sweet and sour onions, slow-roasted celeriac and a pud that’s long been due a revival – lemon sorbet within a frozen lemon – this one scented with hibiscus and served with sparklers!
Lisa Markwell, editor

Primavera risotto, Harry's Bar

Harry’s Bar

For the month of September Harry’s Bar has been looking back at its Italian heritage to bring a touch of the Amalfi coast to James St. Dotted with lemon trees and a pergola craning under a mass of yellow flowers, it was easy to forget our London location when arriving at the terrace despite the hint of evening chill that creeps in this time of year. The N’duja flatbread to start arrived hot, fiery and piled generously high (the kind of portion you think you’ll never finish, but soon enough you’re wondering where that last piece disappeared to) and the primavera risotto consisting of courgettes, pickled fennel and preserved lemon certainly indulged our ‘summer’s not over’ state of mind. In further celebration of their Italian roots, Harry’s offers a blowout finale to their summer menu that we couldn’t resist – The Amalfi Lemon. A celebratory dessert indeed, it’s a white chocolate ‘lemon’ cleverly concealing mousse, lemon shortbread, citrus curd and a deliciously tart sorbet. Well, you know what they say, when life gives you lemons…
Molly Wade, memberships manager

Spiced chickpeas with sweetened yoghurt, Kahani


Tucked away in a beautiful downstairs space just off Sloane Square, a visit to Kahani makes for the perfect mid-week or weekend pick me up. Kahani, is a restaurant from ex-Tamarind Michelin-starred chef Peter Joseph, serving inventive cocktails and a traditional take on Indian cooking with his signature modern twists. I enjoyed spiced chickpeas with sweetened yoghurt, mint and a gorgeous tamarind chutney and the malabar prawns were fragrant and juicy. The smoky tandoori broccoli with honey and nigella seeds was the star of the show, all accompanied with paired wines and selection of traditional sides.
Tom Pilgrim, partners & memberships

Tomato and cods roe tart, The Dairy Bermondsey

The Dairy Bermondsey

I was delighted to find all the charm and deliciousness of The Dairy has been successfully transported across town to within the new Bermond Locke apartment/hotel in Bermondsey. Even those gorgeously hefty stone plates from back in the day are there, this time showcasing beautiful new dishes such as this cods roe and tomato tart. A jaunty wine list and Dan Joines running the show mean this is a welcome addition to the ‘hood.
Lisa Markwell, editor

Friggitelli peppers, Crispin


The Crispin team kept busy during lockdown with the launch of Crispin Stores, a brilliant combination of grocery and deli items, ready meals and natural wines, but it was great to see the restaurant back in full swing with not a table spare on Wednesday evening in an otherwise empty Spitalfields. The sourdough pizzas put our high street faves to shame, with grown-up toppings like courgette, ricotta and mint, and don’t be shy when ordering a selection of small plates; the friggitelli peppers and Dusty Knuckle bread with burrata and culatello ham were excellent.
Minna Gabertas, partners & memberships

My Neighbours the Dumplings

After a few drinks on Chatsworth Road on Friday I headed over to My Neighbours the Dumplings on the off chance of a walk-in. A swift September breeze was a small price to pay for a spot on the terrace, with brilliant service and plates of crispy pork belly, Mapo tofu, and plump prawn dumplings.
Chloe Hamilton, head of partners & memberships

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