Dover sole, Rick Stein
Gambas Kadaif, Mo Diner
Various, The Little Viet Kitchen
Vanilla rice pudding, Provenance Kitchen
Various, Temper
From Barnes to Brixton. Here are the best things the CODE team ate this week.
The Silver Birch
The timing is heartbreaking but judging by the warm welcome that Chiswick residents have given new opening The Silver Birch, it will come back stronger after lockdown. On the last day before temporary closure, a buzzy lunch service included wonderfully elevated versions of familiar dishes – such a crisp ‘blooming’ onion with a rich cep puree and iberico pork schnitzel tempered by zingy lemon and capers. Head chef Kimberley Hernandez has also had a play on the St. John idea of eccles cake with Lancashire cheese; here she makes a stunning version of tart tatin with a snowdrift of grated cheddar on top. The (first-time) restaurateur is Tim Price, whom I met when we were classmates at Leiths School of Food and Wine – he’s a highly accomplished chef himself, having worked at Marianne post-grad and his passion is clear to see.
Lisa Markwell, editor
Dover sole, Rick Stein
Rick Stein, Barnes
On the eve of lockdown part two it is interesting to note what Londoners choose to do with their last day of the old new normal. As we watch rowers glide past the window taking advantage of a last outing on the water, we are inside tucking into a beautifully simple dover sole (what else?) at Rick Stein in Barnes. Pan fried whole on the bone with minted potatoes on the side, there is a reason this dish has stood the test of time. Who knows when we will be allowed back, but it’s comforting to see how many people turned to hospitality for one last meal out.
Will Lake, COO
Gambas Kadaif, Mo Diner
Mo Diner
He’s created two of London most famous hangouts over the decades, Momo’s on Heddon Street and sketch around the corner on Conduit Street, so it’s no surprise that Mourad Mazouz’s latest venture is just as funky. Next door to Momo’s, Mo’s Diner calls itself a Mediterranean diner with an eccentric decor, but more importantly a certain Mr Eric Chavot is behind the grills of the open kitchen. It was so nice to come across something a bit different – go when lockdown is lifted.
Adam Hyman, founder
Various, The Little Viet Kitchen
The Little Viet Kitchen
What better way to banish the feeling of impending doom that comes with lockdown number two than with a bowl of The Little Viet Kitchen’s beef pho (made using 6 cuts of beef and cooked for 8 hours) – the richest, most fragrant broth with a generous helping of noodles, herbs and a nice kick of chilli. The slow-cooked baby pork ribs were a firm favourite, and the tofu lemongrass and coconut curry also received rave reviews from around the table. The restaurant also has a good selection of Vietnamese beers, and a great cocktail list, too.
Minna Gabbertas, partners & memberships
Vanilla rice pudding, Provenance Kitchen
Provenance Kitchen
I’m lucky enough to live only a few minutes away from the wonderful Flourish Produce farm and have been picking up fresh vegetable boxes during lockdown. So, when I saw they were the suppliers of all the veg at Provenance Kitchen, I knew the restaurant would be a hit. Safe to say it did not disappoint. The chargrilled Napa cabbage with spiced chickpeas and miso aioli was a perfect balance of fiery and delicious – and the garlic and parsley fries are a must. The highlight, though, was the the incredible vanilla rice pudding with salted butterscotch. I can’t wait to return when the government gives us the go ahead…
Harriet Prior, editorial assistant
Various, Temper
Temper Covent Garden
A boozy brunch at Temper Covent Garden was just what was needed to prepare for the Prime Minister’s announcement on Saturday night about lockdown. To celebrate Day of the Dead, it was bottomless margaritas along with tacos to see us into the evening and enjoy one of our last night’s out before lockdown.
Adam Hyman, founder
The Laundry
Brixton is always buzzing but the atmosphere was especially spirited in the final few days before lockdown take 2. Well aware this would be the last night out of the house for some time there was no holding back and we went to town on the menu. A couple cocktails, small bites, starters and sharing plates piled onto our table followed by mains, this meant the moules marinière with fries for me, juicy house burgers and tuna Niçoise for the rest. Had it not been for the fact we had to be out of there at 9:59 I’m sure we would have tackled a dessert or two before rolling home.
Molly Wade, partners & memberships
Heritage tomato, burrata and basil, The Laundry
To read more of the best things the CODE team ate this week, click here
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