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The Dumbwaiter’s Best Bites of the Week: 24 January 2020

Published 24 January 2020

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From Margate to Mayfair. Here are The Dumbwaiter’s Best Bites of the Week. To read more of our reviews, subscribe to the CODE Bulletin.

Dory’s

The only things that could possibly improve Margate favourite Angela’s, would be a sea view from every seat and being open all afternoon, luckily their little sister Dory’s a stone’s throw away has all the above and more. Counter seating is always a favourite in The Dumbwaiter’s book, so a full view of the action paired with engaging and happy chefs and waiters made for an excellent afternoon. Particular highlights included house-cured sardines, torched mackerel not long off the day-boat and a fantastic value selection of English wines.

Wilton’s

Since they dropped their tie rule, followed by their jacket dress code apparently Wilton’s has been busier than ever before. The so-called ‘suits’ who dine here are ironically no longer in their Savile Row finest. Instead a pair of well-cut Japanese denim jeans, crisp white Tom Ford shirt and well-polished pair of J M Weston’s do the job. But this doesn’t mean Wilton’s has changed when it comes to be one of the finest examples of hospitality in London serving proper plates food you want to eat. Oysters, crab, langoustines, twice baked soufflé, Dover sole. All washed down with a glass or two of their own label Chablis. Sharing plates, what?

Sartoria

London’s dining scene of late seems to be all about pasta. The Dumbwaiter has lost count of the number of new Italian restaurants popping up – cacio e pepe is the new burger. But one place that has always been a good bowl of pasta is Sartoria in Mayfair. Francesco Mazzei’s cooking has always been some of the best in London and his quirky take on vitello tonnato is fun too!

Pilot Light x Clerkenwell Boy x CODE Hospitality x Soho House Blue Monday Dinner

Last Monday was Blue Monday – 0fficially the most depressing day of the year. To shine a spotlight on mental health, Andrew Clarke of Pilot Light and Clerkenwell Boy decides to host a dinner at White City House to support mental health in hospitality. Chefs including Lee Tiernan and Chantelle Nicholson knocked up a feast of five ‘comfort food’ courses.

The Yard by Robin Gill

The Great Scotland Yard hotel opened its doors at the end of last year just off Whitehall (close the Corinthia and where the new Raffles will eventually open). The Hyatt owned hotel as cleverly brought on Robin Gill to run all the F&B with his restaurant The Yard at the heart of the offering. Chef Alex Harper oversees the kitchen and Lewis Wright the front of house. The Dumbwaiter will be back for more.

Lina Stores King’s Cross

The Dumbwaiter spent Sunday morning trying the new colazione menu at Lina Stores King’s Cross. Go for the bombolini – little Italian doughnuts filled with chocolate and hazelnut cream – but the creamy polenta with mushrooms and parmesan will also make the trip worthwhile. Make sure to peruse the pastries at the deli, too – the cannoli come highly recommended!

To read more best bites of the week, subscribe to the Bulletin here

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