Published 30 April 2021
by the CODE team
From the Mitre to the Marksman, here are the best things the CODE team ate this week.
One of London’s hottest tables – and not just because the space heaters are really efficient… Brat is back and all the classic dishes are back on the menu, so of course anchovy flatbreads, smoked potatoes, cage-roasted fish and Basque cheesecake were ordered, but my curiosity was definitely piqued by a dish at the test stage – quail both as confit legs and on a sage skewer with its heart and liver, in an olive-rich liquor. Yes to that!
Lisa Markwell, Editor
I’ve moved house this week. My new local is The Mitre in Fulham, for which I am very grateful. Over the years I have ended up in The Mitre on several occasions – often to watch the rugby or for Sunday lunch (the chicken roast to share was a particular winner) – and I rather love it. The garden seems to have more tables than ever and proved the perfect spot for a mid-move lunch break. Sea bream and a pint in the sun hit the spot very well indeed.
Will Lake, COO
I felt incredibly lucky to have got a table at The Marksman on the gloriously sunny Saturday we had last week. Sitting on their little roof terrace we enjoyed dishes from their brunch menu – starting with a curried lamb bun with salt lime and curry leaf yogurt, followed by Dorset crab kedgeree, a side of black treacle sourdough and the fried potatoes. We managed to keep our table for an extra couple of hours before the evening rush came in and had a delightful afternoon soaking up the sun, a couple of Aperol Spritz’s and a bottle of ice-cold rosé. I’m already thinking about when I can get another visit in the diary.
Molly Wade, Memberships Manager
Anna Tobias had the misfortune of opening Café Deco in the middle of the November lockdown, swiftly followed by the seemingly endless third lockdown. Regardless, the spirit of her first solo venture, on Bloomsbury’s Store Street, refused to be dampened and the food media were quickly on the scent of her sandwiches and quiches. Now serving lunch on the little terrace out front, there’s the addition of some glorious dishes, simple but elevated with carefully sourced produce. The asparagus cacio e pepe was a signature ugly-but-delicious dish and the generous portion of sweet and sour rhubarb crumble with thick, yellow, vanilla custard was the ultimate comfort food.
Chloe Hamilton, Head of Memberships & Partners
As you’d expect, the elegant terrace at HIDE, complete with cosy blankets and attentive waiters, was bustling at breakfast. If there was a chart for hit dishes, the restaurant’s croque madame would be at number one with a bullet. It is a harmonious marriage of funky, oozy cheese and salty ham, with the obligatory runny egg yolk, but perfect cookery and a deep shaving of truffle on top to make it Mayfair-worthy. Pro tip: if you go, leave space for a stunning strawberry, elderflower and clotted cream croissant tartlette.
Lisa Markwell, Editor
Poké and champagne – turns out it works rather well… Popping the bubbles on the first night in our new pad we realised the oven wasn’t yet connected. In full mid-move hanger, we picked our supper largely based on what would arrive quickest. Fortunately, that happened to be a poké bowl (the lack of cooking being especially helpful in our hour of need). My slightly overexuberant ‘build your own’ choices aside it hit the spot very nicely indeed. Now backed by White Rabbit Fund, it sounds like plans are afoot for expansion too, so good for them.
Will Lake, COO